Category: Uncategorized

  • Amsterdam – City of Art

    Amsterdam truly has an amazing collection of museums. While in Amsterdam, we visited Rembrandt’s House, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Rijksmuseum and the Anne Frank House.

    Rembrandt’s House was our first stop. Rembrandt spent the final years of his life in poverty with massive debts. To cover his debts, he was forced to sell his house in Amsterdam as well as all of his possessions. The detailed list is of his possessions is what makes the museum possible. The curators had a complete list of everything in the house. The house is spacious with both lots of living and working space. His studio is impressive with the massive windows that flood the room with light. He had a massive collection of everything from a stuffed alligator to unusual sea shells that he used for inspiration for his paintings. His enormous collection is partially responsible for his debt. Even as he struggled with paying his bills, he continued to acquire new items for his collection.

    After spending the morning at Rembrandt’s House, we took the trolley to Museumplein. There we first visited the Museum of Contemporary Art. It was a real treat. It is located in a small art-deco building from the 1920s with a charming sculpture garden surrounding the museum. The exhibits included a fun Banksy exhibit downstairs and a star-studded exhibit upstairs including Keith Haring, Julian Opic and Jeff Koons.

    Interestingly, it was the only museum where we did not need to buy tickets in advance. Over 20 years ago, on my first visit to Amsterdam, I was able to walk into Rembrandt’s House, the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank House. Those days are long gone. We walked by the Van Gogh Museum and the line for those on standby was wrapped around the building.

    For our next stop, we went to the Rijksmuseum where we had tickets. The museum let us in early and we had a fabulous lunch in the museum cafe. We sat next to a fun couple from Windsor England. They were on a cruise with a bus tour of Amsterdam and had a few hours off before returning to their ship. We shared travel stories and discussed our mutual dislike of Donald Trump and Boris Johnson . Upstairs in the Dutch Masters exhibit, we had another chat with a tourist from Toronto Canada. When people are on holiday, they are usually so relaxed and receptive to meeting new people.

    The Dutch Masters collection is impressive. Having just visited Rembrandt’s House, it was fun to see the museum’s extensive number of Rembrandt paintings. The only disappointment is that The Night Watch by Rembrandt is undergoing an extensive restoration that is anticipated to take 10 to 15 years. The museum has hired 8 art restorers to undertake this impressive project. This project is being done in public and visitors are able to see the restoration work being done. The first stage is the painstaking process of removing the old varnish. As a reminder, this painting has been vandalized twiceincluding in 1975 when a deranged man slashed it with a bread knife.

    Our final museum visit for the day was an evening visit to the Anne Frank House. The museum is so popular that it stays opened until 10 PM at night. Our tickets were for 7PM and the museum was filled with a combination of people from The Netherlands and around the world. Tickets are only released online 6 weeks prior to the desired date. I actually had to set my alarm for 2 AM on a particular Tuesday to purchase our tickets. When I successfully purchased our tickets, I felt like I had won the lottery. I had previously visited the museum over 20 years ago and a lot has changed. The audio guide is phenomenal as is the revised curation of the Frank hiding place. The tour includes great video clips of Otto Frank as well of the former employees who helped with the hiding process. There was also a temporary exhibit about Otto Frank’s experience traveling from the concentration camp back to Amsterdam. The museum is extremely poignant and worth visiting. As an FYI, no photos are allowed.

  • Windmills Must Mean I’m in the Netherlands

    We visited Kinderdijk to see the windmills and they didn’t disappoint. At one, there were over 11,000 windmills throughout the country. Now, there are approximately 1,100. To be a miller requires years of training. If you make a mistake, you can cause the windmill to self-ignite.

    Also, it’s no myth – they really wear wooden clogs. Apparently, wooden clogs are waterproof and inexperienced. The millers we met wore unpainted clogs. Yellow clogs became popular as well because yellow use to be the cheapest color of paint. Painted designs on the clogs indicate which region of the Netherlands the person is from.

    The windmills we visited serve a critical function. They pump water into the rivers to prevent flooding in the Netherlands. They are so hypnotic to watch. If we didn’t have an appointment with a cheese maker, I would have stayed for hours watching.

  • Exploring Cologne Germany

    I wasn’t sure what to expect from Cologne Germany. First, the city experienced 95% destruction during WWII. Fortunately, the cathedral was the first of its kind – built with steel reinforcement so most of it survived. Overall, the city is a mixture of old and new. Some of the modern architecture is spectacular but other buildings, such as city hall, are really ugly and depressing.

    Our tour guide explained that Cologne is more about a certain attitude. The locals appreciate being social and enjoying life much more than the more serious Berliners. Cologne natives, apparently, talk to everyone and are less reserved than other Germans. Consequently, bars in Cologne are much more likely to be filled with people chatting versus loud music drowning everyone out. At night, I did notice a few bars aimed at a younger crowd with blaring music.

    The city seemed very safe. Our evening tour guide, for our pub crawl, confirmed my impression of Cologne. It is also a very walkable city with lots to explore as you walk. I actually got in almost 17,000 steps in one day of touring Cologne.

    The city has a Lindt Chocolate Museum that is worth visiting. We found the gift shop to be almost overwhelming. My husband and I saw items that we never see at home in the U.S.

    We did take a brief break from the city to visit the hunting lodge and Bruhl Palace. Both were impressive. When Bonn was the capital of West Germany, the government used the palace to entertain top visiting dignitaries such as Queen Elizabeth and Ronald Reagan. Both structures are impressive. Interestingly, both interiors incorporate the most beautiful Dutch blue and white tiles on the walls.

    If given the opportunity, I would like to return to Cologne to spend a few more days. Our tour guide noted that the London Times describes the Cologne Christmas Markets as the best in the country. I see a December trip in my future!

  • Koblenz: Pure Magic

    Koblenz might be my favorite German city so far. First, it’s on the Rhine and Moselle Rivers surrounded by beautiful historic castles. Second, it’s a very walkable city with so many charming old buildings combined with interesting modern architecture. Koblenz is actually over 2000 years old.

    The tram system was initially installed as a temporary structure to celebrate the arrival of 2000. The city then wanted to keep it open post Millennium. It spent the next five years negotiating with UNESCO to keep the tram system without losing its UNESCO status for the valley. I am glad things worked out. The views from the cable cabins are spectacular. Plus, we were able to see the fortress which dates back to 1815. It actually occupies the same location of an earlier fortress that the French destroyed in 1801.

    The city has been through a lot. The most is several severe storms that flooded out much of the town. Koblenz was severely bombed by the Allies during WWII. Yet there is a really positive energy and sense of whimsy. There is a really fun fountain in town that consists of a young boy who spits out water every few minutes. If you stand too close to the fountain, you will get soaked with water. It is called the Schangelbrunnen Fountain. Also, near the city’s modern art museum is a series of whimsical modern sculptures – a giant thumb, a purse and a bottle of Channel 5.

    The huge memorial statue of Prince William is located where the two rivers meet. The original statue was copper and destroyed by the Allies during WWII. The current statue is a replica and only dates back to 1993.

    We ended our visit on a very high note with a round trip ride on the cable tram that took us across the Rhine to the city’s fortress and then back to where our ship was docked.

  • Wertheim Is Much More Than a Quaint German Town

    I loved all the genuinely old buildings of Wertheim but I also enjoyed seeing the local townspeople shop and interact with each other. We were lucky to be there for a Wednesday morning Market when several specialty merchants were there to sell produce, meats, seafood and other products such as olives. Business was brisk. The weather was nice so lots of locals sat in the outdoor cafes enjoying coffees and pastries, too. Prices at the local clothing shops were reasonable so many of our fellow travelers on the Baldur enjoyed shopping.

    Besides taking an overview tour of the city, we enjoyed a second tour which went into the Jewish atrocities during WWII. Our tour guide took us to specific buildings and had photos from the Nazi era showing Nazis removing Jews from their homes as well as Nazi soldiers standing guard in front of Jewish-owned businesses to prevent sales.

    We ended our visit to Wertheim with a visit to the oldest bakery in town and bought several pastries. We sat outside and spit a a chocolate and almond type of cake that I have never seen before. It was delicious and not too sweet. We shared a linzer torte later that was also fantastic. I am glad that I am averaging between 12,000 and 14,000 steps per day; I am hoping that it will help me burn off some calories.

  • Wurzburg Has Something for Everyone!

    We had one of our best travel days today in Wurzburg. There is much to do and the town is so manageable.

    Like Nuremberg, the town was heavily bombed during WWII. Much of the area was rebuilt post WWII. Our first stop today was the Bishop’s Palace. Several of the rooms are original but much of the palace had to be restored after the war – including the Hall of Mirrors. The Palace has an exhibit that goes into the details of restoring the palace. The locals take tremendous pride in the palace and boast that it is more impressive than Versailles. Having visited Versailles, I disagree with the locals but this is a very impressive palace.

    We then had a very pleasant walk from the palace to the downtown portion of Wurzburg. Like Bamberg, the town economically relies upon tourism, the university and about 100 other schools. In addition, Wurzburg holds many festivals and other special events. Everyone from Elton John to Michael Jackson has performed in Wurzburg. We were fortunate to experience an early Christmas market. The vendors included typical German arts and crafts as well as all kinds of food and beverages. I have to admit I was surprised to see a booth selling churros.

    The area grows the largest amount of grapes in Germany and Wurzburg is known for its local white wines. Wine bars are everywhere and wine is definitely more popular than beer in this German town. There is even a wine bar on the bridge that serves its wines in glasses; my husband and I watched both Germans and tourists strolling the bridge with wine glasses in hand. We opted for coffee and pastries at a nearby cafe but those on our ship who partook said that the wines were really good.

    I am really enjoying the Bavarian part of Germany.

  • Bamberg – Stepping Back In Time

    Founded in the 11th century, Bamberg is the most picturesque town in Germany with medieval architecture. It managed to escape the Allied bombs during WWII so it really is like stepping back in time. It is a small town with approximately 80,000 people. The university and tourism essentially support the town. There are a nice variety of stores and restaurants but, interestingly, there is only one tourism store that sells post cards and other typical tourist items.

    It is famous for its smoked beer. Once we heard it described as beer infused with an ashtray, my husband and I opted to pass on sampling this delicacy. Among those on our ship who did, most were not too enthusiastic. Beer, in general, became popular in Germany out of necessity. The local waters were polluted and made the people ill. Beer was a safe and cheap beverage that did not make one sick. The wealthier opted for the more expensive wine as their beverage of choice.

    The outer area used to be called Little Italy or Venice due to the multi-level homes that are on the canal. The fishermen used to reside in these homes – it was considered the poorest part of Bamberg. The bottom level frequently flooded so most fishermen used it for boat parking. These days, the homes go on the market infrequently but when they do…they sell for well over $2,000,000.

  • Nuremberg: So Much More Than What I Thought….

    I wasn’t sure what to expect from Nuremberg. During WWII, over 90 percent of the city was destroyed. What survived is a miracle. The rest was rebuilt and is very attractive. Hitler saw Nuremberg as his ideal German city so it is no surprise that the Allies went after it so aggressively. In addition, much of the German military manufacturing was based in Nuremberg.

    Nuremberg did a better job preparing for bombing during WWII than other German cities. Consequently, despite aggressive bombing by the Allies, the city lost far less residents than other cities. The city used its numerous underground beer storage sites to shelter both people and their artwork.

    Luckily, we were able to take a tour of the places where the Nazis hid artwork during WWII, including stolen pieces. It was fascinating. Unlike the majority of Nuremberg’s buildings, these underground hiding spaces remained intact and safe from the bombings. One of the most miraculous things saved were all the stained glass windows from Saint Sebaldus. Much of the cathedral was damaged by the Allied bombing. After the war, the Germans rebuilt the cathedral and reinstalled the original glass panes.

    Unfortunately, we visited Nuremberg on a Sunday – In Germany, most stores are closed on Sundays. Luckily, two specialty stores for German gingerbread (more like a spice cookie) remain open on Sundays. The store we entered was packed with both local Germans and tourists. It was our only experience with an unhappy shop owner. Everywhere else has been so incredibly friendly. Most Germans not only speak English but do so with an American accent. As we travel along the rivers and canals, the German people have been so incredibly helpful and hospitable.

  • Regensburg – Home of the Oldest Fast-Food Joint

    The minute we approached Regensburg, I knew I was in for a great experience. Luckily, Regensburg escaped bombing during WW II and most of the old buildings survived. For example, the Stone Bridge dates back to the 12th Century. My only disappointment was a certain amount of graffiti. This is not exclusive to Regensburg. We have spotted quite a bit of it in Vienna and Passau, too.

    The cathedral is especially meaningful as it is the former home of the late Pope Benedict XVI. The cathedral has been under constant renovation with scaffolding surrounding the exterior for decades. Apparently, for the Pope’s visit to the cathedral the town temporarily removed the scaffolding for one week in 2006.

    The highlight of the day was our visit to the Sausage Kitchen. The place has been in business for 900 years and, on average, the restaurant sells 6,000 sausages a day. We both ordered sausage sandwiches on rolls with sweet sauerkraut and the Sausage Kitchen’s amazing sweet mustard. We both agreed that it was the best version of this combination we’ve ever eaten. I was really excited to find bottles of this mustard for sale at a nearby store.

  • Discovering Passau: A Quaint Bavarian Town

    We arrived in Passau early this morning. It’s a border town adjacent to Austria. The town has a population of 44,000 and we were able to tour the town in less than two hours.

    Apparently, the town was in dire economic condition until a university was founded in town in 1973. It is the youngest university in the Bavarian region of Germany with a strong academic reputation. Today, it ranks in the top 30% of universities worldwide.

    The real treat in town is the Baroque cathedral – Saint Stephen’s. The plaster workmanship inside the cathedral is impressive.

    Before our visit, I knew nothing about Passau. John and I really enjoyed our brief time walking the cobblestone streets of this Bavarian town.